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Welcome

 

I am a maker and designer of handmade quilts based in the UK, having begun my quilting journey back in the early 1990’s. I have studied on a number of courses and workshops and am now embarking on a City & Guilds course. I enjoy  making contemporary quilts inspired by traditional patterns and in particular  learning about quilting from different geographical areas. I use a variety of fabrics and especially love to incorporate Liberty cottons when I am able.

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Health & Safety, Time & Cost Module 1

 

Health & Safety Rules Observed Module 1

I have my sewing studio set up in a small bedroom and have been using this as both a work room and study.

My sewing machine is situated on a table under the window giving plenty of work area and light.

The electric lead runs under the back of the table to the socket and is well away from the walk way.

I store fabrics and other materials on shelves and in drawers in the same room and in a big chest of drawers on the landing space outside the bedroom, the chest of drawers doubles up as a cutting table and where I iron fabric to use. There is plenty of light in this area and a socket for the iron.

As I suffer with back problems I am constantly aware of posture whilst measuring, cutting and sewing.

I keep all scissors and rotary cutters and blades in a metal storage tray on the chest of drawers where I cut fabric. My cutting mats are on top of this chest.

I often have grandchildren visit and so am aware of moving these items into my studio when they are around.

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Time Log for Module 1

Date Activity/Chapter Approximate time spent
28/9/16 Chap 1 gathering fabric

Tasks 1,2,3

2.5 hrs
5/10/16 Marker test task6 1 hr
19/10/16 Task4 30 mins
20/10/16 Tasks 5,6 1 hr
  Upload to blog 1 hr
23/11/16 Chap 2 task 1,2 1 hr
24/11/16 Task 1,2 45 mins
19/12/16 Task 3, 4, 5 1.45 hrs
20/12/16 Task 6,7 2 hrs
21/12/16 Task 8,9 1.45
22/12/16 Blog chap 2 2.15
6/1/17 Chap 3 sort fabric, iron fabric, read thru chap 3 1.40
10/1/17 Photograph, prep fabric, rotary cutting fabric & paper 1.30
  Write up 3 hrs
12/1/17 P45-55 & write up 3 hrs
13/1/17 Finish off 2 hrs
14/1/17 Complete course book post on blog 5 hrs
18/1/17 Chap 4- whole chapter, do work, write up, blog and complete course book 5.5 hrs
20/1/17 Chap 5, task1 + write up 2 hrs
21/1/17 Task 2,3,4 + write up 6 hrs
22/1/17 Task 5,6,7 + write up 4 hrs
25/1/17 Finish writing up, printing photos and mounting all in course book 3 hrs
27/1/17 Blog chap 5 1 hr
5/3/17 Chap 6, carry out, mount work and photos in book, blog 4 hrs
     
     

                      Cost Sheet

Date Item Supplier Cost of item Amount used Estimated cost
24/9/16 Marking pens Berkhamsted Arts      
  Paper        
  Sketch book     whole book  
  glues   Total £28.44   £28.44
30/9/16 Tailors chalk Merchant & Mills     £2.00

 

Module 1 Chapter 6

Quilting Quests 2

Introduction to Machine Quilting

Task 1

For this task I was asked to use the four square blocks I made in a previous chapter and using my machine, I carried out both Outline and Selective quilting.

I have never really enjoyed machine quilting in the past, even though I use a walking foot, I find on bigger items the fabric still puckers. I didn’t have a problem with these small blocks but I was using quilting thread which I have never used on my machine before, maybe this made a difference?

  1. Outline

For this block I didn’t mark the fabric but used my presser foot as a guide alongside the seams

  1. Selective

For this block I used an HB pencil to mark the diagonal lines to quilt along

Task 2

Test Pieces: Fill an A4 page on your course book with small test pieces, each showing a different repeat pattern

patterns

When quilting, I prefer straight lined patterns to anything with a curve in it. I have recently seen a plain whole cloth cushion cover by Lindsay Stead (see photo below) having triangles picked out by just the stitches, so it looks like patches made up with stitches and is most effective.

lindsay-stead-quilts

Task 3

For this task I was asked to make up a four square block in 3”x 3” squares, then quilt this block using the presser foot for a guide to keep lines straight and equidistance apart

 

Task 4

For this talk I made an identical block. I made a wavy template from card, drawing the waves freehand, and then using the template to repeat these lines throughout the block

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XTRA

I had one 4 square block left from a previous chapter and so used this to rotate a curves line pattern onto opposite plain squares, leaving the opposite patterned squares unquilted.

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Evaluation of Module 1

So I have come to the end of Level 1 Module 1 and have really enjoyed the challenge. It all did get a little hectic around Christmas, New Year and our February trip to South Africa, but I have finished and look forward to starting the next Module.

As I look over my course book I enjoyed getting together all the pieces of equipment that I would need over the following months, I did have most of the requirements but realised there were other tools out there that would come in handy. I am a fabric hoarder but had never thought about using different papers to plan out ideas. While carrying out the ‘cutting, pressing, scrunching’ table I realised that these are actions which I carry out without thinking when choosing fabrics to use, the same goes for choosing colours and patterns, I lay them alongside each other and pick those that look best together.

I enjoyed making the 4 square blocks and found my tutors feedback helpful, especially when I was asked to repeat the task using the 3 pin method when holding the squares together to sew.

I particularly enjoyed chapter 3, using the rotary cutter. I have used one for years but it was good to carry out different tasks with it.

To be honest, Chapter 4 was probably my least favourite, it was interesting to try the different applique methods but none of which would I use in the future, I don’t think.

I do love hand quilting so Chapter 5 was a hit for me and I enjoyed adding pieces of old blanket into my work. As I have said, I don’t really like machine quilting but I was pleasantly surprised at how I got into the final chapter. I don’t think I will ever use my machine for most of my quilting but I do appreciate how difficult it is and admire those who produce beautifully machine quilted items

Module 1 Chapter 5

Quilting Quests 1

At last, time to get into some hand quilting my favourite part!

I have a good collection of fabrics and waddings etc in my sewing room to carry out the tasks in this chapter.

XTRA

It was suggested that I make up some more ‘quilts’ using less conventional fabrics.

I used bubble wrap, plastic and brown paper, before drawing lines on and hand quilting through using fine crochet thread. This was an interesting experiment and something I hadn’t tried before. Not so easy to sew through and keep stitches small but I think I managed to keep them all quite regular in size.

Task 1

Making up Quilt Sandwich

I have used a plain dark blue top, medium weight polyester wadding and white cotton backing for this test sample.

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Task 2

Multi Choice Sandwich Selection

I chose 4 different coloured plain cotton fabrics for the quilt sandwich tops, thin white cotton for the backs and different fabrics for the wadding. 100% cotton wadding, polyester wadding, cotton fleece fabric and a piece of checked old Welsh woollen blanket.

I cut each of the top and wadding fabrics into A4 size and the backing pieces 1” bigger all around.

I then pinned the layers together with curved quilters safety pins before tacking. I would normally just use the pins but with needing to mark the quilting lines onto the fabric later, the tacking made it easier to draw the lines flat onto the fabric without the pins getting in the way.

When I took quilting courses years ago, I was taught to hand quilt the same way as suggested here in the course instruction book. To knot the thread, entering the sandwich about an inch away from my starting point and enter by the top. Gently tug the knot through the top layer and wadding and up to the first stitch. The finishing instructions are also the same as I have been taught in the past, make a back stitch, bringing the needle up through the wadding and top layer, making a knot to pull through.

I used the navy sample to stitch using different distances between the rows of stitching. I drew lines on the top using a ruler and white chalk pen, marking two lines 1” apart and two 11/2” apart

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Task 3

For this task I was asked to use one of my previously made 4-patch blocks and make it into a quilting sandwich, hand quilting the areas with Outline Quilting, stitching ¼” away from the seams and hoping to avoid stitching through the seam allowance. I did draw the line onto the fabric using a ruler and HB pencil, although usually I wouldn’t bother doing this and just use my eye.

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Task 4

For this task I used another of my 4-square blocks, making it into a sandwich and using Selective Quilting, I hand quilting across the centre of blocks in diagonal lines

 

Task 5

For this task I was asked to produce an A4 sheet of experimental geometric quilting designs

I used mostly squares, laying them differently to produce diamonds and I used parallelograms.

designs

 

Tasks 6 & 7

Marking fabrics then hand quilting, using dark and light fabrics

I continued with two of my sample quilts, marking quilting lines on each using one of my previously made templates.  On the light calico top I marked the lines with a sharp HB pencil and on the darker blue fabric I used a white chalk pen to mark

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I found marking with the HB pencil so much easier than the chalk pen which had a rolling wheel through which the chalk flowed. This wheel was a little tricky to keep against the template although it was easy to brush off after I had finished the quilting.

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I then hand quilted both these quilts samples, for the calico I stitched with grey quilting thread and for the blue fabric I stitched with very fine ecru crochet thread.

backThe bottom photo shows stitching on the reverse of the quilt

I always find hand quilting relaxing and satisfying and quilting such a small project made keeping the stitches small and regular so much easier than a big project.

The light calico topped quilt has 100% natural wadding in it and the blue topped quilt has the Welsh woollen blanket wadding in it. Both were easy to hand stitch through, the natural wadding being a little thinner and so the stitches were easier to keep small. Using the fine crochet thread is a little like Sashiko quilting and I was tempted to use a Sashiko needle which is longer than a regular quilting needle, but decided against it.

Note:  Sashiko (刺し子?, literally “little stabs”) is a form of decorative reinforcement stitching (or functional embroidery) from Japan Traditionally used to reinforce points of wear or to repair worn places or tears with patches, this running stitch technique is often used for purely decorative purposes in quilting and embroidery. The white cotton thread on the traditional indigo blue cloth gives sashiko its distinctive appearance, though decorative items sometimes use red thread.

 

 

Module 1 Chapter 4

Silhouetted Shapes

This is also called shadow applique, something I hadn’t heard of before, and is formed by laying a dark fabric between either a cotton base and transparent or translucent top layer or between two transparent/translucent layers.

This chapter begins by designing with geometric templates. I used my cardboard templates made in a previous chapter, I drew around them onto template plastic and cut these new templates out.

I then used them to cut out shapes from black card to be used to make up different designs on A4 grid paper

A tip given is to use Blutack to hold these shapes in place which is really helpful

Shadow Applique Method

I decided to use calico for my base fabric, I’m so glad I did rather than use translucent fabric for both the base and the top. The translucent voile which I used for the top layer moved around a lot and to have it on the base as well would have made the work so much fiddlier.

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Sandwiched Shapes

I chose to use a dark grey checked wool fabric, this was thick and didn’t fray and could be seen through the voile well. I pinned my black shapes to the fabric and cut them out to make up my chosen design, leaving enough room between the shapes for my stitching.  I then pinned the wool shapes to my calico base fabric. After this I tacked the wool pieces onto the base, leaving the tail of tacking thread on the back so it would be easily removes once the piece was finished.

 

For my top fabric I used voile that I bought a few years back to make princess dresses for my granddaughters, this is probably the worse fabric I have ever used as it slips and slides and moves around, stretching out of shape as you work with it! Anyway, I am glad I had plenty left over for this task.

I decided to use silver voile as my main top later and add a piece of purple voile in between part of the piece of work, so for part of it there are four layers of fabric not just the three required. I spent time rearranging the voiles to see which positioning I preferred.

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I then pinned the layers in place and chose a colour coordinated embroidery thread to stitch around the silhouette shapes. I used a running stitch for this main piece of work.

I made the mistake of stitching too close to the first silhouette shape, this meant that the wool fabric bunched up a little under the voile. On the other two pieces, I left a small gap between the edge of shape and the stitching which gave the shape the opportunity to move a little if need be.

Xtra

This suggestion was to add extra embellishment in the form of beads/buttons/decorative stitching.

I decided to add some colour coordinated and clear beads to my piece of work, together with some small metal beads. I tried to give the impression of water/ice forming on windows with the purple voile giving the impression of a shadow to one side.

 

I made another smaller piece of work in the same way, again using calico for the base then using brown felt with gold voile on the top. I used dark yellow and green embroidery thread for form decorative stitching around the shapes, I used blanket stitch and chain stitch.

I really enjoyed working on this chapter!

 

Module 1 Chapter 3

From Chapter 2

Before starting chapter 3 I had been asked to make another 4 square block using the three pin method of holding in place as described on p35 of Module 1. The blocks which I had made hadn’t been centred terribly well and my tutor suggested I try this method so as to make sure the centre of the four squares was exact. I carried out this task and the result is far more satisfactory than my other attempts

 

Chapter 3 Rotary Cutting

As I have been using a rotary cutter for some time now, I already had the cutter, mat and ruler. However, it’s always good to go over the correct way of using this equipment as it’s easy to allow bad habits to set in!

I had several fat quarters in my fabric stash and so was all ready to get going on this chapter.

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I ironed out my fabrics and photographed those I planned on using, ready to print off on paper. This task, as I’ve mentioned before has been a great eye opener for me, showing me how different fabrics will look together in different shapes and sizes without actually cutting the fabric itself and therefore causing waste if I don’t like the outcome. I am saving all the photos that I am taking of the fabrics, in a folder on my laptop so that they are ready for any future tasks I may need them for.

I have worked my way through the instructions on p45 of Module 1. Preparing the fabric by folding in half on the straight of grain and using the ruler and cutter to trim off the rough edges and prepare the fabric for use.

I then continued working through the instructions and cut strips of different fabrics into different widths.

Chapter 3 Task 1a

For this task I was asked to rotary cut a variety of strips in different widths as test pieces. I cut each fabric into 11/2”, 2”, 21/2” and 3” strips

Task 1b

I then rotary cut a pile of squares from some of those strips, layering the strips into 6 layers to cut at the same time

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Task 2

I then chose a range of fabrics to explore different layouts. I lay these fabrics together to decide which looked the best together. I had already photographed each fabric and printed them off.

Task 3a

For this task I used the scanned pictures of fabric, using a pencil and ruler to mark parallel lines and cut them out with scissors, varying the width of strips.

Layout Trials

Here I made up several different arrangements by placing 3 scanned strips together, varying narrow/medium/wide widths and different colours/designs.

a)                                   b)                                     c)

d)                                                       e)

a)  Strips getting progressively narrower  b) symmetrical sandwich with same fabrics on outer edge  c) 3 different widths with very narrow one in centre using complimentary colours  d) symmetrical strips with widest/boldest design strip in centre  e) same width strips in 3 different fabrics each with 2 patterned and 1 plain design

Continuing with Layout Trials I used a bold patterned fabric and cut into 11/2” strips. I then cut the same width strips from plain and less bold patterned fabric but with coordinating colour scheme. I rearranged these fabrics to try different variations.

 

course-book

Task 4

For this task I was asked to look up Amish Roman Stripe and Amish Roman Bars quilt patterns.

I really like the Amish style of quilts and noticed in A World of Quilts by Cassandra Ellis a chapter on Welsh Bars which is very similar to the Amish patterns. Cassandra says in her book regarding the Welsh pattern “Most of the mining and rural communities were isolated, so their quilts soon developed a signature look. There was very little outside influence, until returning families brought quilts back with them from America. Fabrics were often plain and used in striking combinations, with intricate quilting patterns that made them highly sought after.”

I found these photos of Amish Bar quilts in the images section on line

I was then asked to choose 3 arrangements from my test layouts, arranging the strips into 3 sets of 3 and stitching each set together using a ¼” SA. The tip given for this task was to stitch from alternate ends to prevent the trips from curving. I pressed the seams to one side on the reverse.

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Task 5

I then cut each of the long stitched strips into 5” sections using my ruler and rotary cutter. I used these sections to make up different layouts, this was a good task to carry out to see which sections looked OK together and which looked too ‘busy’ I chose two different designs and stitched them together

 

Xtra

For the xtra task I had to cut shapes from one of my strip patchwork designs. I used the templates that I had made at the beginning of chapter 2, drawing around

each template on the back of the patchwork. I used a 2”x2” square, 2”x1” rectangle and 1”x1” squares. Cutting out each shape with scissors.

Task 6

Design a Block with Tapered Strips of Paper

This task asked me to produce a decorative design using a varied range of papers in two colours, cutting into shapes with inverted seams. Inverted Seams means that they look like they’ve been sewn on the wrong side, thus the edges of the fabric are exposed on the RS and not the WS. This gives an added dimension to the piece of work.

I used papers that I had collected from pieces of wrapping paper and pages torn from a non-glossy magazine. The task asked for the paper to be cut into tapered strips, varying in width but of the same length.

I used a ruler and rotary cutter and then ran the edge of the scissor blades along the ruler to form a crease in the paper and so be able to fold the edges up neatly to give the impression of an inverted seam.

I then glued the shapes onto paper before gluing into my course book

Task 7

This task was similar to task 6 but with using fabric and then cutting the finished piece into square blocks.  I wasn’t sure about the instruction which says ‘Use rotary cutter to cut 3”x6” fabric squares from a stack of three fabrics’ as 3”x6” clearly isn’t a square, so made 6”x6” squares

I used fabric of similar colours to the paper I used and cut out tapered strips, laying them all out on my cutting board and moving around to find the order that I liked best and making sure the strips alternated in wide/narrow widths so as to maintain as straight a base line as possible. I then stitched the strips right sides, together using a ¼” SA.

I used my rotary cutter to trim the edges and then cut into two same size squares.

Task 8

This task was a repeat of task 7 but with using both traditional and inverted seams

After pressing, I trimmed the edges and once again cut two equal sized square blocks from the joined fabric. I found that I preferred the seams pressed to one side rather than pressed open.

 

Xtra

For this xtra task I was asked to produce a multiple patchwork block by stitching together a selection of squares, rectangles and strips.

I enjoyed this task as I do like to make quilts by ‘designing as I go along’ 🙂

I have tried to make the points all fit together neatly but I haven’t always succeeded.

xtra-patchwork-block

Module 1 Chapter 2

Module 1 chapter 2

Task 1

For this task, I was asked to make geometric templates. It doesn’t matter how long I have been doing patchwork and quilting I always manage to learn something new.

In the past I have always just measured and cut templates, or drawn around a metal template. I have never thought to use grid paper to make them….so much more simple than measuring and drawing a shape!

I already had grid paper in my sewing room from making clothing patterns for my grandchildren. I cut along the lines to make the required size and shape for squares and rectangles. I then glued these to card board from a cereal packet and  cut them out from that.

I made 1.5” and 2” squares and 1.5” x 3” and 2” x 4” rectangles

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Module 1 Chapter 2 Patches of Colour

Task 2

For this task I was asked to use the square template that I made for the previous task to make a set of coloured papers in one colour, using different designs and plain paper

I drew around the template and cut out the squares, arranging them in different patterns and then gluing them onto paper.

I found this a helpful way of seeing how quilt designs can be made up using different shapes, sizes and colours

I made the following patterns.

task-2-a    task-2-b    task-2-c

I have never experimented with coloured paper to plan patchwork patterns so this chapter has been invaluable for me and I have learnt so much from doing it.

Module 1 Chapter 2

Task 3

For this task, I was asked to use the same colour range of papers and add one larger square from my prepared templates to produce a range of patterns.

For the first pattern, I used sixteen 1” squares to form four 2” x 2” squares and placed them alternatively on the paper with four 2” x 2” squares

task-3-4       task-3-3                    first pattern                                      second pattern

The second pattern uses sixteen 1” x 1” squares, two of which are in the same pattern as the six 2” x 2” squares

Module 1 Chapter 2

Task 4

Using the same colour scheme I was asked to add a rectangle to the two different sized squares. As I’m doing this with paper I am already going over in my head how fiddly this is going to be when I begin to use fabric and I will need to add seam allowance to the pieces!

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Module 1 Chapter 2

Task 5

For this task I was asked to do the same as task 4 but to change the colour of one of the shapes.

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I’m not especially keen on the colour combination I used here but it does show up the different shapes more so than using similar colours

Module 1 Chapter 2

Task 6

This task is carried out by only using rectangles to make up the patterns.

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I think the green paper with small dots works ok but the red with the larger spots, not so well as the spots have been cut in order to make the rectangles the correct size

Module 1 Chapter 2 Task 7

For this task I was asked to repeat my paper blocks in different ways so as to create a range of patterns.

I enjoyed doing this task, I made up a square using four smaller squares, photographed it then reproduced the squares onto a bigger piece of paper twelve times to create the overall design, before then printing it off.  I’ve never thought to do this in the past but think I will do so with fabric when planning a quilt top. This will then give me a prediction of how the finished quilt will look.

I then rotated the blocks of four small squares to create different patterns. I think the colours and patterns on the paper work well. The green spotted squares are made from wrapping paper and the patterned squares are from a photograph of Indian fabric which I the cut up.

task-7-photo

task-7-rotate-1        task-7-rotate2

Module 1 Chapter 2

Task 8                                                             

For this task I am moving onto using fabric and stitching using four 2” fabric squares to form a four-patch block.

I used a previously prepared template made from 2” grid paper stuck onto card. I chose two pieces of colour coordinated fabric, a plain blue and blue flowered piece of Liberty fabric. I lay the template on the WR and straight of grain of the fabric and used two different marking pencils, a light coloured one for the plain blue and a dark coloured one for the fabric. I drew around the template and then used a ¼” rule to add another line to form the stitch allowance. Cutting the fabric out on the outer line.

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4 5

I hand stitched along the sewing line using a running stitch and joined the first two squares together, one plain and one patterned. I then sewed the other two squares together. I lay the two pairs of squares together and pressing the seams with my thumbnail in opposite directions so as to lessen the bulk of fabric, I stitched along this seam.

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I finished off the block by ironing the seams flat.

Module 1 chapter 2 task 9

For this talk I repeated the first part of task 8 but instead of hand stitching the squares I stitched by machine. When sewing the squares together I used the chain method and continued stitching from one pair of squares across to the other pair. I snipped the joining thread and lay out the two pairs in the same way as the hand stitching method and joined them together. I had never used the chain method of stitching across multiple pairs to save time and will be sure to use in future.

6  machine-2

I ironed the block flat.

On reflection looking at both the finished blocks, I see that the hand stitched one is more accurate than the machine stitched. I find that when stitching along fabric there is some movement on the top layer and then the seams move slightly and don’t match up so well at the end

I feel that the seam junction especially on the machine block, could be neater and certainly be improved. Both finished blocks measure 4 ½”

In the past when stitching small pieces and particularly with a more complicated pattern, I find that I get a more accurate result from hand stitching than from machine stitching. I will usually join the individual pieces by hand and then the finished blocks by machine.

I have mounted both the finished blocks into my coursework book and have made up four more hand stitched blocks ready to use for quilting later on.

work-book-photo    workbook-2

 

 

Patchwork & Quilting Module 1 Chapter 1

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Module 1 Chapter 1

Fabrics & Threads

Materials I need to collect for chapter 1

As I have been sewing and making quilts for several years I have quite a collection of fabrics. I pick these up from fabric shops and from charity shops. They may be pieces of fabric or items of clothing which I upcycle into quilts.

It has been good to just re look at what I have and to assess the plain and patterned fabrics and how they work together.

I have never considered including patterned and plain papers to help with colour/design ideas when planning projects to make and so this task has been hugely helpful.

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Design Equipment

I have collected marking equipment to carry out Task 6 later in chapter 1. I had a few items before starting this course and was interested in finding and trying out the other items suggested.

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Sewing Equipment

Once again, I already had this equipment without needing to go shopping. I have never been able to get on with the quilting finger guard and just use a normal thimble whilst quilting. I usually use quilting thread but on occasion use the beeswax block if I’m using ordinary thread. I have a variety of needles including sharps and betweens. I use two different ¼” rulers, curved quilters pins for basting layers and a rotary cutter

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Module 1 Chapter 1

Task 1 & 2

I have put together a collection of patterned and plain fabrics and  patterned and plain papers, using different colours and designs. As I mentioned previously I have collected the fabrics over the past years from fabric shops, charity shops and friends who have passed on their off cuts. In the past I have bought fat quarters of fabrics from shops but usually now I like to buy bigger pieces and often use online shops. The down fall of this is that I am unable to feel the texture and check the crease etc.

 

 

 

Module 1 Chapter 1

Task 3

For this task I needed to experiment with cutting, press-creasing, scrunching and marking each of my selected fabrics. I then recorded my compare and contrast results. This was an interesting experiment, I always prefer to use 100% cotton for my patchwork projects for all the positive reasons in this task, it creases well when pressed with a finger, it irons and cuts easily and doesn’t fray too much.

task-3-chart

 

Module 1 Chapter 1

Task 4

Sorting out Patterns & Colours

For this task I needed to collect an assortment of plain and patterned fabrics/papers of one colour. Place them in two columns, one of plains and one of patterns with a combination of darks and lights with lightest at one end and darkest at the other.

The pieces needed to be the same size and so with the variety of pattern size some pieces could incorporate a whole pattern while some couldnt. I chose to use all fabric and no paper and use the colour blue. The patterned pieces were all flat cotton while the plain pieces included fleece and towelling. I found that while some pieces I would definitely put together in a project others I wouldn’t as the shades of blue didn’t complement each other. To incorporate  the choice of different pattern sizes I would need to consider the patchwork sizes carefully or not mix the sizes at all.

task-4-photo

 

Module 1 Chapter 1

Task 5

For this task I was asked to explore stripes and a bold pattern in a repeat pattern. I used glue to stick the pieces to paper and put into my coursework book.

This was an interesting task, I have never used a bold pattern in this way and don’t think I would do so in a quilt, although I am interested to try with a different bold pattern at some point just to see the comparison.

The striped fabric worked well, I have used different striped fabrics together in a quilt before and like the result.

 

Module 1 Chapter 1

Task 6

For this task I was asked to experiment with different marking equipment. I used both plain and patterned fabric drawing around a jar lid and using a H pencil, and air erasable pen, a chalk pen, dressmakers pencil, a mark and erase pen and tailors chalk

I then made a chart by gluing the pieces of fabric onto paper to go into my course book

The Tailors chalk gave the best result on plain fabric and the mark and erase pen gave the best result on the patterned fabric